![]() Also gasket match the boost port on the cyl base, match up the chordal width of the windows as well as the height and a few other small things. When done, it looked great and performed amazing. To avoid all the beads hitting the plating, I would shove towels down in the bore and mask off certain areas. I used to just remove the casting marks inside the ducts and then bead blast all the channels. The dig marks on the sides of the port ducts is terrible work, as is the side to side marks, although rough, for god's sake make it a cross hatch or something slightly appealing to the eye! The inside of the port ducts and anything else that sees a fresh fuel charge will run better with a rough feel, it makes for a better flow up and through the ports.anything that sees carbon like PV's, exh port, head can be polished for easier clean up and especially for a cleaner running pv system. I'd find another shop for future work and do my best to repair what you have there. Either of these hypothetical "new helper" explanations reflects on the judgement of the shop owner / management. My thoughts on both of these situations (your porting and my buddy's forks) is that perhaps the shop hired a new helper without the mechanical and technical experience necessary to do the work unsupervised, or without the integrity to do good work unsupervised. There was what I considered clear evidence that they used a pair of channel-lock style pliers to tighten the preload nuts as well as a rebound adjuster hammered in with an impact gun so tight that the threads were galled beyond repair. ![]() The result was two forks of different lengths and overly harsh suspension. They cranked his pre-load all the way tight and failed to correctly set the length of the spring-cartridge (which is an inherently bad design from Race-Tech already). They installed the Race-Tech spring conversion in his Factory Edition AER fork. I wouldn't hire whatever shop that is to do any actual work.Ī related story: A buddy recently had a problem with some KTM suspension from a well known shop. ![]() After a six pack of my favorite cold ones I can hold a better straight line or smooth arc with a carbide burr than that. I also think there are people who don't need to operate manual machines like die-grinders and whatnot. I'm a machinist, I own/operate a small CNC shop, so I have an eye for detail. I question anyone's skill (or caring about their work) who digs in that bad on the inside corners. I will say we ran our stock bike with STIC Keihin carb against the full mod running their modded Mikuni and the stocker blew it away. He paid a good amount for it over a year ago. Maybe it doesn’t really matter but the porting looks terrible, grinder grooves everywhere and very non symmetrical. The full race one didn’t seem to run that well so I decided I better tear it down and see what was actually done. I got such a good deal none of this matters money wise. Both had minor problems in the first few hours like a powervalve retaining bolt coming out. One was a “Lorettas stock” build and the other a full race port job. So I bought a couple 2017 Husky TC125’s from a friend who was getting out. ![]() ![]() I know enough to not grind away without having a dyno or flow bench at my disposal. So I never have our cylinders done by anyone I like to do minor porting & cleaning on them myself and combined with reworking the powervalve linkages plus tuning our bikes have always ran amazing. ![]()
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